Correcting Mistakes

The Secret to Amazing Coloring

 
The secret to amazing coloring isn't what you think it is. Improve your Copic or colored pencil coloring with this one secret. | VanillaArts.com
 
 

Are you a fixer?

Readers of my weekly Vanilla Beans newsletters (subscribe here) have heard me mention the fixing process in the last two issues.

Yes, I’m a fixer.

But so is every other professional artist I know.

The secret to amazing coloring isn't what you think it is. Improve your Copic or colored pencil coloring with this one secret. | VanillaArts.com

Fixing flaws, making adjustments, and making corrections is part of the artistic process. Nobody throws paint at a canvas and calls it perfect.

Artists labor over their artwork. Sometimes the adjustments are major, like adding a tree to balance the composition or painting over something that detracts from the focal point.

But the vast majority of fixes are so minor that you’d hardly even notice them.

I’m constantly fiddling with the temperature of things. I’ll add warm colors over the top of an object when it feels too cool (because cool colors tend to recede and feel far away). And I’ll cool something off when it feels too bright and boisterous.

I play with depth too. I push things deeper by adding more dark, desaturated colors or I’ll pull them forward by lightening and brightening certain areas. I almost never get depth right the first time, it’s a process rather than a single step.

I also reshape things a lot, especially with botanicals. I’ll round off the edges of things or loosen up the outline if that’s what’s needed. I’m rarely happy with the original way that I draw anything; shapes always morph as I work my way through the project.

Wise people know that everything in life requires some form of adjustment. 

 

Are you a color-it-once kind of person?

I hope not.

It’s the equivalent of a race car driver who refuses to pit for fuel or a singer who knows the microphone isn’t working but continues to sing softly anyway.

Who does that?

Colorers. That’s who.

The secret to amazing coloring isn't what you think it is. Improve your Copic or colored pencil coloring with this one secret. | VanillaArts.com

There’s this weird mindset within the coloring community that coloring is a one-and-done process. Once you color an area, you’re done with it forever.

Wrong. 

So wrong it makes my left eye twitch…

Trying to get everything right on the first pass? Wow, that’s a lot of pressure to put on yourself.

But I can’t blame you. Tutorials never seem to mention the “go back and fix that thing you just did wrong” part.

And coloring bloggers and video makers try to present themselves as amazingly awesome coloring super-stars, so the parts where they screw things up often gets edited out.

I guess I can’t fault folks for thinking that they’re not very good at coloring when almost every Copic colorer you’ve ever seen pretends that they do things right every time and every step of the way.

 

The truth is...

...the good stuff really only begins to take shape when you go back and perfect things. 

In the beginning stages, you color on white paper. Your colors will change as you build up more and more intense color throughout the project. There’s no way to predict how strong something needs to be at the beginning of a project. You absolutely have to go back and make value adjustments later- it’s part of the coloring process

Shapes change as you color the spaces around them. I usually do floral leaves before I color the petals. I almost always have to go back and reshape the leaves, especially when they overlap a blossom. Refining shapes is part of the coloring process.

Sometimes a shape isn’t what we thought it was. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve colored something as background, only to find out later that it was actually a flower petal or a lock of hair. You can’t skip that kind of correction. Correction is part of the coloring process.

And lastly, sometimes I look back and realize that some of my blends look choppy. As you work your way through any project, your blending gets better and smoother as you get into the groove. So it’s natural that you may need to go back and smooth the first few things you colored.

Are you sensing a pattern here? Smoothing your blends is also a part of the coloring process.

And yet in the coloring community, no one wants to admit this stuff.

But artists? Hoo boy, we mess up all the time and most of us will gladly talk at length about all the corrections we make. We kind'a take pride in rescuing projects that were heading southward... "man, I fixed the heck out of that area over there!"

The difference between a mediocre artist and a great artist is that great artists fix and adjust the mediocre stuff until it looks great.

 
The secret to amazing coloring isn't what you think it is. Improve your Copic or colored pencil coloring with this one secret. | VanillaArts.com

Fixes are essential to making great projects

I’m a better colorer for making these changes.

I’m an honest colorer for admitting that I do this. It serves no purpose to pretend that I got it right from the start. Hey world, I almost never get it right from the start!

So the next time you’re knee-deep into some online tutorial or internet video, don’t beat yourself up for not coloring it all perfectly.

There are steps missing from that tutorial. They are not showing you everything.

Correcting and adjusting… we all do it.

You should do it too.

It’s okay to go back and fix things. In fact, it’s vital that you go back and fix things.


 

What’s the secret to amazing coloring? 

It’s as simple as going back and making adjustments.

 

Five MORE Mistakes Beginning Copic Colorers Make (and how to fix them)

No one is a perfect colorer…

…especially not in the beginning stages

It can be pretty easy to assume that your Copic Marker idols popped out of the womb with a Copic in one hand and a certificate of genius in the other.

But the stinkin' truth is that everyone starts out rough.

Really rough.

There is a definite learning curve to coloring with markers. It takes time and practice to develop good marker skills.

5 More Mistakes Beginning Copic Colorers Make (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com
 

I teach a lot of marker classes

And the one thing I notice is that everyone screws up.

Everyone.

The thing is, we all don't screw up in the same way. Every beginner has a different set of hurdles to overcome. Some people have hesitancy problems, others are over-eager.

Every student I’ve ever met has two or three technique flaws that lead to less than stellar projects.

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

What's interesting though, is that while student A has 3 problems and student B has 3 problems, once you see enough colorers, you realize that all students make similar mistakes, the only thing that changes is the combination they come in.

So to help you diagnose what goes wrong when you sit down to color, let's look at five MORE of the most common mistakes I see from beginners.

Correct these mistakes and you're not a beginner anymore!

MORE mistakes? Yep, today we're covering Mistakes #6 through #10.

Don't miss the Mistakes #1 through #5, here.

In the last article, I used a puffy red heart to illustrate mistakes. This time we're doing blue-violet balloons.

Here's a good-blending sample. I used BV04, BV02, and BV01.

This isn't going to win me any prizes at the County Fair, especially since this balloon measures only 1” tall in real life and has now a high resolution, blown up giant...  but it is a fairly good example of the kind of smooth blending to shoot for.

Each ink color blends into the next in a fairly smooth manner. The lights are light and the darks are dark with no jarring streaks or blobs to ugly-up the image.

So now that you know what pretty good coloring looks like, let’s take a look at some typical bad coloring and how to fix it.

 
 
Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring
 
5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Mistake #6:  Coloring in blocks

Smooth blending should be a gentle transition from one marker color to another. The transition zones are key.

Think of a transition zone as a series of overlapping halves. You use markers A and C. Where the two colors overlap creates color B.

Where markers C and E overlap, you create color D.

To be clear, colors B and D are not actual marker colors, they're colors that are created when you transition between two markers.

In my pretty sample above, I overlapped BV04 and BV02 allowing them to magically create a BV03 section. I did not use BV03, I created it.

Same thing with BV02 and BV01. Those inks mixed and mingled to form the equivalent of a BV01.5.

It's all about the mixing.

But mixing can not happen if you color in blocky sections, as shown here.

The Fix:

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Block colorers are not using flick strokes and that’s why they end up with stripes or blocks rather then transition zones. 

They're physically laying down the correct colors but without the overlap, the inks barely touch each other and never get a chance to blend.

This is a flick stroke, it's a controlled pattern. I've used flicks here to concentrate the heaviest coat of BV04 down where the balloon is the darkest. As I move upwards, the flicks taper off, like little fingers. There is less BV04 ink at the top edge of my coloring and more down at the bottom.

Essentially, smooth blending is all about easing into the transition zone. Easy transitions lead to smooth blending.

It's much easier to blend finger zones to finger zones because there's less BV04 in the upper region for the BV02 to fight with.

Using flicks rather than coloring in blocks will improve your ability to blend inks in the transition zone and to form beautiful middle tones.

A quick note about blocky coloring: You may be a block colorer and not know it! If you typically color quarter-fold card sized stamps with Copics, you are likely coloring in blocks. The teeny-tiny size hides a lot of technique flaws! It’s usually not until you try coloring a larger image that your blocky habit becomes apparent.

 

Mistake #7: Not enough juice

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Here’s a scenario for you: You want to make a batch of pancakes.

Just for kicks, let's say you add only half the liquids. So instead of adding 1 cup of milk you use 1/2 cup. Instead of four eggs, you use only two.

How will the pancakes turn out? Will they be light and fluffy?

Probably not.

You're going to have powdery mess on the griddle. Even the dog won’t eat these pancakes.

You need moisture to make the pancake magic happen.

The same is true for markers. You need wet ink on the paper to facilitate blending.

The Fix:

I usually see dry coloring from hesitant students.

They're afraid to lay down too much color for fear of doing it wrong.

But trying to blend with only a little bit of ink is a like trying to do the backstroke in 6 inches of water. Your heart may be in it, but there's not enough moisture to swim.

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

In the bad balloon above, I used a really healthy amount of BV04 but then I let it cure for about 20 minutes before proceeding.

Then I laid down a very wimpy layer of BV02.

Because I was working a light layer over a dried heavy layer, I did not have enough moisture to rehydrate the darker ink.

And surprise, surprise! It didn’t blend.

Ink particles need moisture to move.

Blending is impossible in a desert.

The best blending happens when you work wet into wet. That means not waiting a long time in-between colors.

It also means being generous with the ink on every single coat.

It's not impossible to blend wet into dried ink but the process requires more ink than wet into wet. This is because ink #1 must be re-hydrated before the blending can begin. It's much easier to hit the ink while it's still fresh.

The other thing for beginners to note is that the magic doesn't always happen on the first pass.

Sometimes the two inks won't begin to blend until you hit it with a second coat.

Blending requires a sense of both timing AND quantities.

If the blend isn't what you wanted it to be after the first application, it's okay to go back and wet it again!

 
 
5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Mistake #8: Too much light ink

Too little ink is a problem, but so is too much ink.

Remember when I said in the last fix that blending relies on a sense of timing AND quantities?

Well, here's why you can't go overboard.

This blend was going well until I got really happy with the lightest marker (BV01).

Basically, I went back with my lightest marker and coated the heck out of everything in the light and medium zones.

Single marker fixing is a problem because now my light area is almost as dark as the dark side.

And see the weird drying line running through the transition zone? That’s a bathtub ring!

And look in the upper left area, the paper is so saturated that we’re starting to get an oil slick up there.

The Fix:

Here's something you may never have considered.

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

One coat of BV01 equals BV01. But what does three coats of BV01 equal?

You can easily get away with a second or third coat of most inks but when you start playing with multiple layers of the same color, all those lovely transparent layers start to add up to more than your original color.

BV01 + BV01 + BV01 + BV01 = BV02.5 or even BV03

By adding too much BV01, I've darkened the top of that balloon past the middle color. I've ruined my dark to light transition.

How do we avoid this?

Do not blend with just one marker.

Balance your applications of every color.

If you're not happy with the blend, don't grab just the lightest marker to make the fix. Instead, go back with your middle color THEN go back with the lighter.

We’re not only blending, we’re also balancing.

Reblending with multiple colors keeps your lights from accidentally layering up to be darker than your middles.

 
5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Mistake #9: shaggy coloring

When I introduce flicking, about half of the students do this.

It’s a tip flick which kinda wanders across the color zone. I call it “dinking around”. It’s like they’re saying “I’m an artist, so I make these sketchy artistic strokes.”

Dink. Dink. Dink.

Dinking is when you look like you’re busy but you’re not really getting anything done.

I think dinkers are so wrapped up in the fun of making pretty flick marks that they forget the ultimate goal of filling-in the shape with solid color.

Shaggy coloring is inefficient and a waste of time.

Shaggy strokes will never blend because you’re barely using enough ink to cover the white of the paper, much less make a blend.

Here’s the other bad thing I’ve noticed: even though a shaggy student might fix the problem, they still revert back to shaggy strokes when they get nervous or stop paying attention.

It’s a life-long tendency which you never really cure.

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

The Fix:

Be mindful.

Pay attention to the look of what you’re doing and not just the feel.

Flicking only works when you're generous with both the number of flicks and the length of those flicks.

Your flicks need to overlap each other, they need to touch and get really snuggly in order to cover over the white space.

This isn't just a case of the BV04 flicks not touching each other either. We've got double trouble in this example. The BV02 flicks need to come down and lay on top of a good portion of the BV04 for the actual blending to begin.

It's not enough to have coverage, the coverage needs to be layered.

Play some Barry White and turn the lights down low. These colors need to get comfy, romantic, and downright dirty with each other. If your two inks never touch, if they sit in quarantine, like wall flowers at a sixth grade dance, then they're never going to merge and mingle and make beautiful music together.

 

Mistake #10: Overstroking

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

This is not usually a first-timer problem.

This bad technique develops after a few coloring sessions, once the student gets comfortable with flicking and coloring with using lots of moisture.

Actually, this is someone who is a little TOO comfortable.

Overstroking is dancing on the edge between a pretty darned good blend and perfection.

Dancing is only cool until you tumble headfirst into the piranha tank.

If you look really closely here, you'll see a mottled texture in the upper and middle thirds of the balloon.

That’s because I blended and blended and blended and blended and then blended some more with all three colors.

I'm right on the edge of oversaturating the paper and in the process, I've used too much of every color.

There’s so much ink here that the solvent in the lightest formula is starting to break down the darker inks.

Mottling happens when the paper is right at the saturation point. The ink particles are so free and floaty that they start to coagulate and clump together into islands of pigment surrounded by pale solvent.

This is basically too much of a good thing.

Mottling can also happen when the lightest marker in your blending combination is a smidge too light for the overall blend… but most mottling is when students get way too confident, pushing the wet into wet technique more towards sopping into dripping.

The Fix:

Know when to stop.

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

There is a limit to how much wet ink a paper can hold.

Just because you can balance on the edge doesn’t mean you should.

More is not better.

In fact, with some Copic inks, more is worse.

If you load enough moisture into the paper, some inks will not just mottle, they’ll shatter.

Shattering is when an ink breaks down into its components. With a dark gray or black you'll see greens and purples start to ooze out.

Green inks can shatter with little yellow halos that often seep outside the boundaries of the image.

Purple and orange can leak reds or pinks.

Experience will teach you to quit while you're ahead.

Good colorers step back from the project to evaluate before they add more ink.

Are you trying to fix a truly bad blend or are you trying to a flaw so tiny that you're the only one who can see it?

In my experience, 60% of your mistakes are ones only you can notice. We're our own worst critics and nothing looks awesome from 3 inches away.

Step back and put the marker down! Learn to live with good instead of killing it in the quest for perfection.

 

So there you go-

5 more common mistakes and 5 solutions to prevent them from happening again.

  1. Blocky coloring

    Overlap those colors because inks that never touch can never blend.

  2. Dry coloring

    Don’t be afraid to use some ink. Blends can only happen when you use adequate moisture.

  3. Using too much light ink

    Smooth out your blends with more than one marker. Use both the medium and the light color, not just the lightest.

  4. Shaggy coloring

    Don’t dink around with sketchy strokes. Cover that paper in smooth and generous flicks!

  5. Overstroking

    I know it feels artistic and oh-so-professional to blend well but too much of a good thing leads to mottles and shattering.

Don't feel bad if you're guilty of more than one!

Heck, I've broken four or five of these rules on a single project. The key is to spot it happening and mentally slap yourself out of it before you take it too far!

Correcting mistakes and flaws in your technique is part of the learning process.

It's good for you!

5 MORE Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

5 Mistakes Beginning Copic Colorers Make (and how to fix them)

 

You do not have to be a genius to make beautiful Copic Blends!

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

No Mensa membership required! 

Coloring with markers is a skill.

That’s good news; because if it's a skill, that means that it’s completely learnable!

Everyone can learn to color well with Copic markers.

But there is a learning curve-- and how quickly you progress depends upon your ability to diagnose the flaws in your technique.

Improvement means correcting mistakes

Because it’s mistakes that stand between you and flawless coloring!

It's not about talent, it's about diagnosis.

You must diagnose the mistake in order to make an appropriate correction.

 

I work with a lot of beginners

5 beginner Copic mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Here’s the weird thing though:

Even though I meet a lot of different students, I see the same coloring issues over and over.

Let's face it, it's a marker. Short of inserting it into your left nostril, there are only so many ways to screw it up.

So to help you diagnose what goes wrong when you color, let's look at the common mistakes I see from beginners.

Correct these mistakes and you're not a beginner anymore!

 

Copic Mistake #1:  Using swirling or zig-zag strokes

A consistent and even layer of ink is essential to smooth coloring.

But you can’t apply ink consistently if you are coloring with swirls or zig-zag strokes.

Here's a close-up look at a swirl and a zig-zag.

5 Beginner Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Swirling uses circular strokes. Zig-zagging means working back and forth in a Z motion.

With both strokes, you rarely lift the marker up off the paper. It’s a long and continuous stroke that winds around the page.

And usually, the more space you have to fill, the more winding and wandering your zig-zag or swirl will be.

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring
 

Now here’s the problem with swirls and zig-zags: the danger is in the repeat!

5 mistakes beginner colorers make (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

I've circled the areas in each stroke where the repetitive motion lays down extra ink.

Remember, extra ink means you’re creating a little stubborn spot which will cause problems when you start blending with the next color.

A touch down is where I started the stroke. Markers always give an immediate gush of ink at the beginning (plus our hand tends to hover at the touchdown site a few milliseconds longer).  

Then every time the stroke overlaps itself, we get a double layer of ink.

 
5 beginner Copic mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

The left lobe of this heart was zig zagged. The right lobe has the swirls.

This is only one application of R27 but in some areas, the ink is several layers thick.

Even though I’m coloring very neatly, it has a messy appearance due to the very uneven coverage. 

Now when I add my next color, more swirling or zagging will continue to compound this unevenness.

The Ebenezer Scrooge in me would also like to point out that you are wasting ink this way.

You really don't need 3 coats of ink on the first application and I’m totally afraid of what your layer-count will be after the blend and the inevitable re-blending attempts.

That’s a lot of expensive ink you’re using there!

Bah-humbug!

The Fix:

You need a controlled stroke pattern that is both regulated and consistent.

This is a flick.

This is a flick.

Balanced ink layers will improve your blending.

With brush nibbed markers like Copic, the way to regulate your ink layers is to use the flick stroke.

Flick strokes provide control.

5 Beginner Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

 When you work with flicks, you know exactly where the high and low concentration areas are.

There will always be a gush at the beginning (that’s the touch-down spot) and the ink level will taper off towards the end of your stroke.

Unlike the swirl or zig-zag stroke, when we color an image using flicks, we know exactly which areas of the image have the heaviest concentrations of ink.

5 Beginner Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

To give this heart a raised or puffed-heart look, I know I need to concentrate my darker colors towards the edge of the heart. 

I need less color in the highlight areas that are more central.

So I've planned my flicking intelligently to place the highest concentration of my darkest ink (R29) on the outer edges.

5 beginner Copic mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

The concentration of ink softens as it moves towards the eventual highlight areas. Now when I introduce my next marker color, it will blend with a lightly concentrated area rather than having to fight with heavy layers of R29.

I can introduce flicks of R27 and know the greatest amount of blending will occur right in the transition zones, not on the edges but in towards the center.

A smooth and easy blend (one that happens with very little work from you) relies on even coverage.

To blend smoothly, we want an area in the middle that isn't super-saturated by either color.

5 Beginner Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com
5 beginner Copic mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

The key to this heart is that the edges are 100% concentrated with R29.

As we move closer towards the center, there is less and less R29 and more of the lighter marker colors showing.

Flicking insures that the concentration of ink will land exactly where the color is most needed.

It’s all about you controlling the marker with intentional strokes. If you are not flicking, you're pretty much guessing where the high concentrations of ink will end up.

Guessing leads to bad coloring.

 

 
Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

Mistake #2: Starting your marker strokes in the middle of the shape

Hoo, boy! I see a lot of people do this in demonstrations, especially on YouTube!

So it’s not totally your fault if you do this.

You likely picked up this bad habit from someone else!

Okay, so from Mistake #1, we know that we want the greatest ink concentration to be out towards the edge of the image, where our heart is naturally the darkest, correct?

Well, that's really hard to do if you start coloring in the middle of the heart!

 
5 beginner Copic mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

This is R27. It’s a lighter red ink, so we want this R27 to end up in the centermost, raised areas of the puffed heart. We want the R29 to fall along the edges.

Now technically, the R27 is in the correct spot.

But here’s the problem: when you start with the lighter color, smack dab in the center, it accidentally creates a heavy edge of ink.

Yes, all around this blob of R27, there is extra ink.

And we know that extra ink is bad.

The edge build-up is what I call a "wall". A wall is an area of thicker ink (where the paper is more fully saturated).

5 beginner Copic mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Now when I try to add the darker R29, even if I flick it perfectly... I'm always going to be fighting the wall of R27.  

Here it is up close. You can still see the heavy outline of R27 underneath the layer of R29.

This area will never blend easily.

Walls are very tough to disguise!

 
5 beginner Copic mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

The Fix:

This is one reason why I work dark to light.

I know, 4 out of 5 dentists recommend working light to dark but hey, I've never been a lemming.

If you work light to dark, you can’t help but scrub the lightest colors down in the center of the shape. Unless you color the whole darned thing R22 (which Ebeneezer seriously frowns upon).

So this highlight zone now has 1 layer of ink and a wall of heavier ink all around it.

The wall isn’t going to magically disappear either.

Light to dark coloring really only works under ideal conditions.

If you're stacking your colors very evenly on a first pass, this is how it should look:

5 beginner Copic Mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

But instead, because we scrubbed in the highlight color into the middle, that means we left a wall around it.

Our layers really look more like this.

5 mistakes beginner Copic colorers make | VanillaArts.com

Layer one had the wall, Layer 2 had to be extra heavy to handle the wall…

That means it might take 2 coats of a darker pink to fight the wall on the highlight. You now have FOUR layers in some places and only one layer in others.  

But wait, it gets worse.

At this point, you've only worked your way darker, you still need to work lighter again to finalize the blend!

5 beginner Copic mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Look at the incredible variation in the number of layers you have now that you've worked light again.

You've got SIX layers of ink in what is supposedly a lighter zone!

You’ve got one layer on the outer edge where you need darkness.

Is it any wonder your blend looks choppy and sloppy?

A smooth blend requires consistency in layers. You can't get that when you start in the center.

You make coloring very complicated by working light to dark.

Working dark to light saves time, ink, and heartache.

5 mistakes beginner Copic colorers make (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Now maybe you think I'm overthinking this.

I'll admit, drawing diagrams of microscopic ink layers does venture into overthinking territory...

Sure, it's a tiny 1 inch heart. When an image is this small, I'm not using a lot of ink, so who cares where I start?

But hold on… a lot of stamps are card sized. And if that stamp has a face, the faces are about 1 inch in diameter or less.

And layers matter a lot on faces!

If you start in the center of a face, you've killed your chance to create a smooth and even complexion.

Heavy build-up can make or break the look of a face.

If you put the blush and highlight colors on first, you are putting the most ink where you actually need the least.

 

Mistake #3: Not building a fence

I teach all my students to flick and I use flicks on every project.

I’m very pro-flicking, but even I’ll admit, there is one gigantic draw-back to flicking.

The start zone, where you begin each flick?

It’s always a little jagged.

Heart hairy edges.jpg
Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring
 

No matter how good you are, no matter how much talent you have, even the best professionals rarely flick from a consistent starting point.

Personally,  I've got a better chance of winning the lottery than I have of forming nice neat clean outlines on my images with just flicking.

The Fix:

Remember when I said that coloring was all about intelligent ink placement?

If we know the outer edge of our heart will receive a few coats of ink to get it dark enough...

Why not use one of our coats to sharpen the edge?

Yep, I build a fence along the edges of my image. Then, no matter where I start those flicks, I know the dam will camouflage the inconsistencies. 

5 mistakes beginning Copic Colorers make (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

And here's the cool part, if you hit the fence while it's still wet, the fence will be less noticeable!

5 beginner Copic mistakes (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Here's how I typically work: I build a little bit of fence and then flick inwards from that fence. Then I move on to the next section.

By always hitting the fence while it's damp with the exact same color of flick, the two strokes merge smoothly and basically equalize.

If you wait for the flick to dry, then you're adding one layer on top of another and it's not quite as subtle.

 
 

Mistake #4: Over-blending

Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

Over-blending is a problem I see more on the internet than I do with my students.

But that’s because I rush my students through the project. I do it on purpose!

When I keep the pace of the class moving, it prevents students from having time to think about over-blending.

Over-blending is when you put too much ink on the paper.

Paper is like a nice thirsty sponge until it can’t absorb any more liquid. All paper has a saturation point.

Most of the time, over-blending happens comes from “Fix-it-Againitis”.

You’re unhappy with your blending, so you go back and try to fix it.

But the fix doesn’t look good, so you fix the fix.

But that fix doesn’t look great either, so now you’re fixing the fix of the fix.

See where this is going?

Nowhere good.

Some papers will start to seep and bleed along the outlines when they are oversaturated. Some papers leak out the back. On many "layout" grade papers (used by Manga artists), you'll see an oily sheen where the ink is too heavy.

If you oversaturate X-Press It Blending Card (my absolute favorite marker cardstock), you will get what I call Copic Jelly.

5 mistakes beginner colorers make (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Jelly is a puddle of concentrated ink that can’t be absorbed into the paper. It doesn't have anywhere else to go so it coagulates on the surface of the cardstock. The solvent eventually evaporates and leaves a sticky mess.

But bleeding edges and Copic jelly aren't the only things that happen when you overblend.

When you add more ink to smooth a blend, you actually lose a bit of your color variation.

Here I've used the same 3 markers to make a blend. On the bottom sample, I blended and re-blended, three times.

Look at how flat it looks! Re-blending kills dimensionality.

Not only does the bottom swatch look flatter and less dimensional, it's also significantly darker.

R22 x 3 coats is more like an R25!

 
5 mistakes beginner colorers make (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com
 
 

The Fix:

1. Work dark to light. The fewer times you have to go up and down the blending scale, the less opportunity you'll have to over-blend.

2. If you are unhappy with a blend, stop working on that area. Go color a new area. When you finally come back to the mistake area, you'll look at the bad spot with fresh eyes. Chances are, the blend isn't nearly as tragic as you originally thought.

3. Take a step back. The average colorer hovers about 2 inches away from their paper when they're analyzing a mistake.

I know, I watch you folks cram up close and squint!

Here's a question: When you want to see if a pair of pants makes your butt look fat, do you stand two inches away from the mirror?

How about when you check your makeup?

Whoa! Nothing looks good at at two inches away. Even freakin’ Kate Upton looks like a fat hag from two inches away!

Step away from the paper.

Stand back.

Can you still see the mistake from 2 feet away?

Unless your card recipient is grandma who forgot her spectacles, your viewer is going to be looking at your project from about an arms distance away.

Things always look better when they're not under a microscope!

 
Improve your Copic Marker blending. Avoid these 5 mistakes beginner colorers make. Solve your blending problems to improve your artistry. | VanillaArts.com | #howtocolor #copicmarker #adultcoloring

Mistake #5: Coloring very Slowly

I see this problem develop when students finally understand the blending technique but they’re still shaky and unsure about how to do it perfectly.

The drive for perfection is the killer here.

So you know how to flick and where to flick but you still make a lot of mistakes… so you slow down.

Maybe it's because you're overthinking the process. It's natural, when your brain gets busy, your hand slows down.

Or maybe you figure if you color slowly you’ll be able to correct yourself, mid-mistake.

But pay attention to the teacher or demonstrator… they’re not coloring slowly, are they?

No!

Not if they’re good. Good colorers are almost never slow colorers.

I'm a jack-rabbit. I don't waste time dinking around. Seeing a molasses colorer makes me want to honk my horn at them. Beep-beep, hurry it up buddy!

But it's not just an I'm annoying Amy problem…

When you color slow, you lay down a ton of ink!

Slow colorers easily cause themselves more problems than they're solving. Pokey-slow is a problem.

The Fix:

5 mistakes beginner colorers make (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com

Beep-beep! Hurry up!

Here is one stoke. One long and slow (and painful) stroke.

For the first peak, sooo slow. Look at how much it bled!

The second peak was a teeny bit faster.

The third peak was faster yet but still slow compared to my normal flick rate.

Now check out what the speed did to the line color.

The squiggly line I made isn't just fuzzy and weepy, it's also several shades darker! It looks like I used different Copics but I didn’t. That’s one marker giving me significantly darker coloring based on speed alone.

If you are regularly getting bleed-through, oil slicks, or Copic Jelly on the surface of your cardstock, maybe it's not how many times you're re-blending, maybe it's your speed!

 

So there you go: 5 Beginner Copic mistakes and 5 solutions

5 mistakes beninning colorers make (and how to fix them) | VanillaArts.com
  1. Swishy strokes and zig-zags lead to sloppy, choppy blending.

    Use a flick stroke for greater ink control.

  2. When you start in the center, you build an unblendable wall.

    Work dark to light, you’ll use less ink and ruin fewer faces.

  3. Flick strokes have messy starting lines.

    Build a small fence and hit it while it’s wet for clean, crispy edges.

  4. Fixing the fix of the fix of the fix of the fix…

    Stop and take a breath. Come back to it later to decide if you really need to fix it again.

  5. Slow strokes and deep thoughts…

    Turtle coloring leads to over-saturated paper and flat color.

But wait, that’s not all!

There are more mistakes coming.

I sat down to brainstorm five mistakes and came up with a big bunch. I'll cover five more beginner mistakes in another post.

And hey, I'm not above the law either. I'll point the magnifying glass at myself and see what I come up with.

We can all improve at least a little, don'tcha think?

 

(psssttt... read about 5 more mistakes here)

1 Signature Teal.jpg

Tool Time: Black Eraser- Remove Mistakes without Damaging your Paper

 

which way you ought to go depends on where you want to get to... 

There's a certain logic to what the cat said to Alice. You need to know where you're going before you decide how to get there.

When you make a mistake with colored pencils, there's not a one size fits all solution. Smart colorers evaluate the damage and decide upon the path that gets them around the mistake without creating a ton of damage in the process.

Erasers are not magical. They can't remove the whole mistake. They can only remove enough to get you back on the correct path.

An eraser is not a time machine, it won't take you back to the day before you made the mistake.

Huh. That's a rather important statement. So let me say that again, in bolder, bigger letters:

 

an eraser is not a time machine

We're talking about colored pencil here. Just colored pencil. Because if you're here looking for a marker eraser, boy, are you fresh out of luck. You can minimize marker damage with a colorless blender but you're never going to do more than camouflage your marker mistakes.

But back to colored pencil- and for that, I'm sorry break this to you, but there's not going to be a perfect erasing solution here either.

You can minimize the damage but you're never going to take yourself back to fresh clean paper. Erasers are not the stuff of H.G. Wells.

I think part of the problem is because we call them colored pencils. When you hear pencils, you think graphite and for every graphite pencil, there's a pretty good eraser, right?

Now if we were more accurate and we started calling colored pencils what they really are... I'd suggest calling them  freekishly-stubborn-sticks-of-color-that-ain't-goin'-nowhere, but that doesn't exactly roll off the tongue... But if we really did call them FSSoCTAGN, then people would stop expecting to be able to remove every single colored pencil mistake they ever make.

A colored pencil eraser can't take you back to Eden, it can only make you feel a little less miserable about goofing up.

 

So let's review the primary rule of erasing mistakes:

First, do no harm.

Protect the paper tooth! | VanillaArts.com

Remember, paper has tooth and tooth is essential to good colored pencil coloring. Tooth is what grabs your colored pencil pigment and holds onto it. Colored pencil doesn't work well on glass, does it? It doesn't work well on glassy papers either. Tooth is vital to the coloring process.

ALL ERASERS DAMAGE TOOTH

There's no way to avoid it. Any rubbing, any friction, any eraser will flatten out the paper tooth and thus make it harder to color over the erasure zone.

So when you make a mistake, start with the lightest, most paper friendly eraser you can find. You don't have to pull out a hand grenade when a fluffy bunny will work.

Made a mistake? Start here:

  1. Sticky Tack Eraser- this is your fluffy bunny eraser. It lightly lifts color without damaging your paper. Read more about sticky tack and how to use it here.

  2. White Polymer Eraser- if the fluffy bunny doesn't work, try your new best friend. White erasers are non-abrasive and grit free. That means they rub without sanding away much of the paper surface. Most of your mistakes can be removed with a white eraser. Read about white erasers here and here.

But if the fluffy bunny can't handle the mistake and your new best friend doesn't make a dent in it, what should you do?

That's when you call in the big boy. BUT ONLY AFTER YOU'VE TRIED THE STICKY TACK AND THE WHITE ERASER!

Who is the big boy?

 
The big boy, the black polymer eraser | VanillaArts.com

Meet the Black Polymer Eraser

They're made by several companies, Factis is the kind that just happens to be at the cash register display of my favorite local art store.

The curse of the black pearl | VanillaArts.com

Pentel, Faber Castell, Staedtler, and Tombow also make good black erasers. The one you want to avoid is the Black Pearl variety.

Just remember the Johnny Depp movie, the Curse of the Black Pearl. That's easy to remember.

A black pearl won't ruin your life but it is way too abrasive for our needs. Save it for the class room.

By the way, that goes for white pearls and pink pearls too. They're all school erasers, not art erasers.

 

 
 

So what's so special about a black eraser?

Well, he's a body builder compared to our other erasers.

We started with the weakest eraser on purpose, but sometimes you need more muscle.

In the eraser world, abrasive grit is muscle. Grit is what's ultimately going to remove the mistake.

But it's a trade-off- grit gets the job done but it'll also damage the tooth. So we want something muscular but with control.

We want a smooth operator; a big guy with some sensitivity. We want don't want the Terminator, we want the Kindergarten Cop. That's the black polymer eraser.

Choose the weakest eraser for your needs in order to save the paper | VanillaArts.com

Here's a sample of each eraser at work on a thick and heavy coat of Prismacolor Premier pencil.

Sticky tack lightens the area. It doesn't erase, it takes the sting off the mistake. Once you've lightened the mistake, you can layer on the correct color. Prismacolor is fairly opaque, this gentle re-coloring process is usually all the correction you need.

But if if isn't enough, try the white eraser. It's stronger than the fluffy bunny sticky tack but you're still preserving the tooth of the paper. Lift what you can and then recolor the zone.

The black eraser is your last resort. It removes most of the color, but it will never get it all. Remember, we are deliberately avoiding the hand grenade in order to keep as much tooth intact as possible.

 

The black eraser has a slight bit of grit so it can remove most of the color. It doesn't have enough grit to dig down into all the crevices.

Think of what's leftover after a black eraser as the Cheshire Cat's smile... the old pigment is still there but it's not enough to get in your way anymore.

Black polymer erasers remove just enough color to allow you a re-try. The downside is that if you over-rub the area with a black eraser, you will damage the paper. That's why it's the eraser of last resort. You never grab the black eraser first; use it only when the fluffy bunny and the best friend white eraser aren't lifting enough color to control the mistake.

And no, it won't leave a black smudge on your paper. I wouldn't do that to you! Good black erasers erase cleanly.

 

Here's the rundown on black polymer erasers:

Alternate Names-

Black PVC eraser, black polymer eraser, black poly eraser

Brands- 

Factis, Pentel, Faber Castell, Staedtler, and Tombow

Defining Features-

A rubbery eraser with a slight bit of grit, black in color but erases cleanly

Best used on-

Works great on graphite projects. Good on wax based colored pencil marks and other media that sit on top of the paper surface. Will not work on liquids like ink or paint that absorb into paper fibers.

Price Range-

Prices vary, usually under $4 per eraser. Sold in multi-packs

Available at-

Some art stores, some craft stores, most online art supply retailers

 

So to recap: No time machines, only fluffy bunnies, BFFs, and Cheshire cats... 

We're either talking in code or we're all mad here.